Know your weave
How to identify a genuine handloom saree
Updated
The short answer
A genuine handloom saree shows slight irregularities in the weave, a fringe of loose warp threads at the end of the pallu, a border that looks identical on both sides, and selvedges that are not perfectly uniform. Powerloom sarees look mechanically perfect and are much cheaper.
Checklist
- Look for small, uneven picks when you hold the cloth to light.
- Check the pallu end for loose warp threads (the fringe).
- Turn the border over — a woven border looks the same on the back; a printed one does not.
- Ask for the Handloom Mark or GI details for regional weaves.
- Compare the price against typical handloom ranges.
Handloom vs powerloom
| Handloom | Powerloom | |
|---|---|---|
| Weave | Slight irregularities | Perfectly uniform |
| Pallu end | Loose warp fringe | Cut and stitched |
| Border | Same on both faces | Often floats on the back |
| Time | Weeks per saree | Hours per saree |